French Casino Lemon Festival is indeed a cute title – n’est ce pas? but more than that it is also relevant. Because, as you will recall in my LAST POST the subject was oranges. (and alcohol, bien sur) So now, it’s time for Lemons. (and yes, I promise, the next post will not be about the Bells of St. Clemens!)

So – why Lemons?  Why is yer ‘ole pal DA BG  – goo-ru of French Country Travel Life, ramblin’ on about Lemons?

Well, it’s like this. I rarely watch TV. And on those rare occasions, my choice of fare is almost always a documentary. Over the past month, there have been three docs pass my screen totally concerned with, or referencing, the lemons of Menton.

Now, as you will recall from “French Geography for Smarties” Menton (pro: “mon tawn”) is at the tail end of the French Riviera. Smack dab against the Italian border. This factoid means that Menton is a “shopping portal.” The temporary destination of other Riveria-ites who pass through it to Italy. Where they shop ’til they drop at lower-than-French prices. And return. With no duty, no customs check. (That’s Europe, folks!)

Other than that singular point of distinction, Menton, is yet another fun- in- the- sun -on- the -cote- d’zur location. But, happily, without the faux glitz and nose in the air attitude of Cannes. Or the “jet set-we-bathe-in-$100-champagne” ambience of St. Tropez.

But in the hills above the city(what the locals who’ve never seen the Rockies would call “Mountains”) there grows the fabled Lemons of Menton.

Why all the fuss over these “citrons?” Well, first of all, the “LOM” is not as acidic as it’s non Menton Brothers. While it’s always a semantic minefield to attempt to “describe” a taste(unless you’re a nerdy wine snob) the lack of acidity gives the LOM a softer, more subtle flavor. Very much favored by Gourmet restauranteurs. Most of whom, on the Riviera, have a “dedicated” supplier in them thar hills.

As you might expect, this revered Citron is Menton’s prinicpal claim to fame. And as such is celebrated with  a yearly festival. Now in it’s 8Oth year. That’s the good news. The bad is that owing to the fact there are only about 15 “Lemonists” left in Menton, the majority, if not all of the  145 tons of fruit needed is imported from……you guessed it……Morocco!

Menton’s Lemons are partially, if not totally responible for Monaco’s Casino culture. This is because “back in the day” Menton was a part of Monaco. The heavily-taxed-for-it’s-Lemons part.

Finally, “mad as hell and not going to take it anymore” the Menton-ites, taking a cue from Robespierre and his posse – revolted. Peacefully, I’m happy to report. The result left Monaco without the mountains  o’ cash the lemon taxes had provided. Viola – enter the Casino!

As you would expect there is a “Hotel Lemon” in Menton. Certainly “Tarte du Citron”. And tho’ I haven’t checked, I’d be willing to bet a bottle of  Chateau Pichon, Comtessee de la Lande 1984, that you could also find an organic juice bar offering “Lemon smoothies.”

Prove me wrong and get a great bottle of wine. Now, how cool is that?

THROW ME A BONE HERE,PEOPLE!

What are ya thinkin’?

When someone says: “French”…..what’s the first second word that comes to mind? “Fashion?” Maybe. “Film?” Uh,could be.”WINE?” Yes sir, you betcha! That be the first,second word describing France. How could it not be with vines covering so much of the “terroir?”

From time to time France gives the World a movie/music star/sports hero. But the “gift” of French wine is constant and(happily)consistent. (Curiously,the World’s premier wine magazine is American.)

On the World markets, French wine faces stiff competition from producers in other countries. Many of whom are either French,and/or have adopted the French model. Regardless of taste/price,there is one element French wines have that World wines do not.Authenticity.

Because of A.O.C.(Appelation Origine Controle) – The government system of wine designation/control.

This “fidelity”to a specific location means that a Pinot Noir from Beaune,must be produced from those grapes alone,and grown within the Beaune appellation. This assures the consumer that this pinot is an authentic reflection of Beaune’s soil and climate.

World wines,on the other hand,have no such restrictions. And because wine is such a huge business, the Multinationals who churn out container carloads plus o’ vino,focus on the taste/price balance,relative to each market. And,if their grapes in any year are not “ab/fab”,they’ll be “enhanced” in the cellar.(“Better drinking through chemisty”…….NOT!)

There is even a wine producers “hotline” offering market specific additive info. “OK – So you want to produce a Chardonnay for low end Japanese consumers..Since they like a banana flavor on the finish,you need to add yeast b-957.”

Happily, if you do detect a nuance of banana in your French Savignon, you can rest assured, thanks more to tradition than A.O.C, it’s the real deal.

Although Italy produces more wine by volume than France, the adjective -“Quality” is synonymous with French Wine in the popular imagination.

The Bottom (and obvious)line: Every Country has wines of varying degrees of “quality” – however you wish to define the word.

One wine that fits MY definition of quality is produced by Domaines Tatin.

You can join their wine harvest HERE.

Bonne Degustation! (Good Tasting!)

THROW  ME  A  BONE  HERE, PEOPLE!
What are ya thinkin’?