French Country Travel Life Village Tour – Part Three
French Country Travel Life Village Tour – Part Three may increase your enjoyment if you first check out PART ONE and PART TWO. (but, hey…if you’re a risk taker…..)
When you finally descend the wondering heights of Lacoste, turn right on RN 100, and enjoy the scenery. But not for too long. Because in no less than 5 to 10 driving minutes, you’ll be seeing a sign for “Bonnieux.” (she being the last of our hilltop stops.)
Go slowly along this here byway, and if it’s late June or early July, look left and you’ll see a half dozen bing cherry trees. These are “anybody’s tree’s.” As in no designated owner. So, feel free to sample the “fruits of the land.” (keeping in mind what too many cherries can do!)
200 or so metres past the trees, a rustic building partially submerged in greenery will emerge . As you turn right, you’ll see it’s a classic “in-the-middle-of-nowhere” French Ma and Pa Cafe, Coffee Shop and Dry Cleaners. (Actually, they may not be offering this service anymore. but, hey – never hurts to ask – right?)
Amazingly, I’ve never eaten there. Even more amazing considering I lived in the gite exactly next door for a winter. So – now it’s your chance. (p.s. the gite is now a private residence.)
Across from the cafe/ancient Gite, a concrete confirmation(and aren’t those the best kind?) that kitsch is universal. An old train station has been converted into mutiple arts n’ crafty …dare we call them “boutiques?” Hey – why not!
After thrilling to these down home country attractions, it’s time to drink in more of the Luberon National Park’s wonders. And, happily, this wonder is just down the road. And you can get a (small) drink there. for FREE! Yes, dear reader, yet another “Cave Co-operative!” She belonging to Bonnieux, where you will next be adventuring.
By now, you, a cave co-operative veteran of (at least) Coustellet and Lumiere need no instruction, prompting or skill testing questions to know what to do!
After doing what needs to be done and gaining an enhanced appreciation for the Luberon’s liquid treasures, the road will, as you have no doubt anticipated, begin to make like yeast. And soon the village of Bonnieux will be looming medium large ahead.
Bonnieux, like it’s hilltop cousins “dates back to Roman times.” So, if you’re inclined to wander about (you are – right?) you’ll find no shortage of evidence of the passing of the ancient conquerers. The “lil’ B” (pop – about 1500) also sports a cedar forest. Them thar trees being imported from North Africa during the Napoleonic era.
You’ll remember in Part One of this riveting saga I said the “Gordes is the most celebrated of the hilltop villages.” I also promised “more on Gordes later.”
OK – now is “later.” First of all, to get there, you’ll need to go all the way back to your starting point. – Coustellet. The crossroads village. And at that intersection (there’s only one – so no confusion) turn Right. The road gradually winds upward, through rocky, sagebrushy scenery . The village, which will come into view ahead, and to the right, is definitely “imposing.” With a capital “I.”
Sadly, due to the fact it’s in every “most-beautiful-villages-in-france-you-must-see-or-be-a-total-loser” guidebook, the prices are equally imposing. Unless, of course you’re already good with dropping 6 euro ( about $7.80 U.S.) for a postage stamp cuppa joe.
Now, I’m not saying give Gordes a miss. DA BG’s advice is: 1) Visit off-season (middle of May/last week September 2) pack a lunch 3) bring something wonderful from your cave co-operative adventures.
More hilltop villages another time – but this should get you started on your French Country Travel Life Village Tour – n’est ce pas?
THROW ME A BONE HERE, PEOPLE!
What are ya thinkin’?
great images. great post. Classic BG! (but then – all of them are!)
i agree with your statement about gordes..defin itely “imposing” in every sense. thanks for the “heads-up” about the coffee prices!
I hear you Samantha …but i think most of us expect high prices from places that are well known.
bonnieux would be my preference – not gordes.
agree completely paul! 1500 people as opposed to who knows who many gawking tourists is deinfitely my cup of tea. (hopefully at a non-gordes price!)
love the opening photo..can almost smell that lavender!
i want those gardens in the first picture! (and there’s a house with them i hope?)
i’m with candance..110%! those garden are incredible. and you post wasn’t bad either! (lol)
that photo of the cherry tree is pure meditation!
with these three exceptional posts – you’ve given us an early east present even better than a huge chocolate egg….a fabulous initerary!…i for one will be taking action!
you saved me from saying it david..(and said it better) i would have PAID to get real down to the ground info like this. BG – long may you reign to write!
i too would very much like to visit those gardens, with something nice from the bonnieux cave-co-op!
raoul..don’t think you’re going to get any arguements there from DA BG’s readers. certaintly not from this one! (lol)
gee…never heard of a cafe that also does dry cleaning….could DA BG be pulling our legs here?
everytime you do a great post (which is often!) i want to say: “this is your best post ever”…but i can’t because you keep coming up with “better” darn you! (lol)
love the way you state the obvious in such a funny way…”dates back to roman times”….hey, i guess pretty much all of europe alos “dates back”..yeah?
blair…..you are a great historian. (if you didn’t already know it)
(LOL)
from your photo, looks like Gordes is well worth visiting. (as long as you bring your own coffee!)
i’m a writer…not yet “an author”..and i am constantly in admiration of the way you use colorful descriptions and subtle turns of phrase to drive home a point. like “descending the WONDERING heights…” little touches, yes, but, so essential for creating atmosphere. reading you is instructional. but FUN instructional. many thanks!
this is a region i was aware of…but not in such wonderful detail.
we will certaintly be following your itinerary when we visit france this spring! bravo for this excellent post!
sure don’t need travel guidebooks with you around. this looks like one great circuit…and i’m gonna try it. thanks BG!
some really great information here…i especially agree with you on when to visit….summer is just a bad idea ..almost anywhere in europe.
very cool stuff man! you reallt got the lowdown on this place…and dig your info on the wine..;rad!..definitely worth checking out.
stayy cool bro!
you described gordes as “imposing”…from your picture my adjective would be “GINORMOUS!
valerie….you DO have a way with words.
fab series of posts…really appreciate the wine co-op info. if only we had something like that here!
neil…..what about us beer drinkers?….what has france got to offer us?
bud…..a question for DA BG. (p.s. i’m a plumber – ie not an expert on French beer???if it even exists!)
a wonderful tour..this series…..all too short…..however you did threaten us with more hilltop villages. a threat we will hold you to!
i’ve been a reader of yours from day one…and i can’t tell you how much your posts have done for me…so much information!…and so humorously presented…..this series is another great example of the truly unique BG style. keep it coming!!!
hey margaret…..how much is the BG you for your “unbiased comment.”
say jack…..you’re not jealous that DA BG doesn’t dig your sparkling wit enough to offer you some cash – are you?
these last three posts…this series….well….all i can say is i just want to jump into those photos and get started!
i hear ya ellie!….what we all need is the transporter beam from startrek!
sean…you mean to tell me that in this age of amazing digital technology..we don’t yet have a transporter beam APP?
walt../great heads up for all the app creators out there…get on it..”Make it So!” (lol)
very fine you should make these post to let peoples know france is more than the eifffel tower and mont st. michel.
looking forward to more of these “virtual tours” from you. this one is fabulous!
lucy… up you to take it from “virtual” to “been there – done that” – right? bon voyage!
as one of your other readers noted…..we’ll hold you to your “threat” of more posts on france’s hilltop villages!
as you may know we have many famous hilltop villages here in Italy… perhaps your readers would be interrest to know of one i like very much..montefalco…maybe sometime you will do a post on it…like these ones….which we have enjoy very much. thank you bg.
mighty fine! with a capital “MF” – this entire series;;can’t thank you enough for opening such a big window on the “real” france. way to go BG!